One country that Anthony Bourdain has not visited in his No Reservations tour as yet is Taiwan. I can’t help wonder why not. Is it political motivated? Is it because Andrew Zimmern has beaten him to the locale? No matter what the reason is, I wasn’t going to make the same mistake.

Mr. Sun's Noodle House

There resides a vibrant Taiwanese community in Toronto. Taiwanese immigrants come from an entrepreneur mom-and-pop background. So there is no shortage of Taiwanese eateries. Places like Mei Nung Beef Noodle House, Jin Yuan, Wei’s Kitchen all serve varying Taiwanese cuisines. But a common thread that ties many of their menus is Beef Noodle. My quest to eat them all have come to the conclusion that Mr. Sun’s Noodle House makes the best version of Taiwanese Beef Noodle yet.

Mr. Sun may have only been in business for his own for a few years, but he brings years of experience to the table. Having cooked in the kitchens of Lao Li Beef Noodle House (located on Sheppard between Midland and Brimley) when it was still a shining beacon for beef noodle, he forged his own path when the restaurant changed new management. But before I testify to the reason I came here, I cannot forgo the opportunity to sample under Taiwanese delicacies.

Stinky Tofu

First up, Taiwanese stinky tofu. Ah… the smell that reminds you of Asian night markets. Torontonians get exposed to this dish when they take in the summer night market experience. Usually, they’ll have to settle for some in-restaurant dining. The experience is diminished somewhat. Instead of standing up, trying to eat your piece of stinky tofu with a tooth pick, smelling them as they’re freshly fried right in front of you. You get it served up with sauce, pickled cabbages. Where’s the chili sauce, Mr Sun? I look around, hoping it would have been slathered all over like thick gravy. But I had to settle for the table-side condiments. The stinky tofu was adequate, much like the others you find around town. Probably because they are supplied by the same provider servicing other Taiwanese eateries – Xiong Ma Ma.

Braised Pork Rice

Another Taiwanese comfort food is braised pork rice.. There’s something about minced pork, braised in soya sauce with an egg and pickled vegetables that makes me crave it everytime I see it on the menu. I don’t order it everytime. Our relationship is like that most amazing fling you’ve ever had… the guy/girl you always give a second look when you meet, remembering the fun times, yearning to go back while struggling to move forward. Mr. Sun’s version is better than most you can find in Toronto. Strong star anise flavours dominate the dish as it should. The gravy mixed in with the rice makes it so easy to slide down your throat. So easy and fast did I scoff it down, that I’m left exhausted, satisfied… yet wanting more.

Pickled Vegetables

The pickled vegetables, seemingly homemade, to preview the main event. There are some who like to through it into the soup. Personally, I like to enjoy the vegetables on its own, so that I let the pickling effect get muddled in the broth. When the beef noodle arrive, my first thoughts were “this looks right”. There are many mutations of beef noodle soup out there. Some boast a clear broth; others use skinny noodles. But the version I’m most familiar with sits in front of me – thick, dark, warm and inviting.

Beef Noodle Soup

What makes a good beef noodle? Let’s start with a generous portion. From there, you must have large bite-sized beef pieces that are break-apart tender from the braising; retaining the braising agent’s flavor. The thick chewy noodles help elevate the enjoyment of slurping it up – a messy but necessary proposition. Some might mistake it as raw/uncooked, I prefer to compare it to the “Al Dente” (to the bite) way of making good Italian pasta. But all these components are merely backstage players to the show’s star – the soup!

The soup is the star. It’s deep anise-based flavour announces its unwillingness to be labeled like other noodle soups. It’s not just any ramen / noodle soup. Even in a blind taste test, you’re sure to recognize it. As the flavour hits, the soup saturates down your windpipe leaving a mellow after-taste that keeps you company for the rest of the journey. The soup is the glue that binds the other ingredients, providing for seamless transition from noodle to beef. When all the food is gone, the only decision left to ponder is whether you still have room to drink the rest of that soup.

Most beef noodle soups can be enjoyed spicy. Mr. Sun asked what level of spiciness we desired for the broth. I’ve enjoyed both the mild, and medium levels. There’s no motivation to move up to the hot level, since at medium.. there’s already too much chili oil drenching the bowl than I would like. I honestly prefer the mild version to avoid the distraction from the broth.

Mr. Sun, you make the beef noodles of my dreams!