Let’s face it. Toronto’s Ramen scene register only a faint blip on the international foodie map. We’ve got a long way to go before attaining the vibrance and ethusiasim found in other North American cities like New York, L.A., or even our west coast Canadian friend, Vancouver. If that sounds like an indictment on Toronto foodies, so be it. But what it’s intended to be, is promoting hope for the future since there’s only room left for improvement.

Kenzo (North York)

Toronto’s noodle scene is an unfocused mess of Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and Italian. In the sea of abundant choices, established favourites like Pho gain grassroot support due in part to its simple recognizability. You know what you’re getting when a friend suggests Pho for lunch. But mention ramen, and people questionin if you are suggesting “instant noodles”.

Ramen are not simply instant noodles. Foodies who know the difference, frequently exchange insights into their favourite Toronto ramen spots on boards like Chowhound. Those discussion threads betray the trail of failure plaguing Toronto’s ramen community. Reports of closures are easily found and mourned. Those who survive, like Kenzo, go about their daily grind looking for opportunities to break away from the rest of the pack. But even a much loved Ramen eatery like Kenzo has battle scars. Kenzo’s expansion into Markham’s Peach-tree plaza closed down recently. But a silver lining within those dark clouds lives on Kenzo’s website:

Both our current restaurants are now under new management.
We are planning to open a new Kenzo Resturant downtown area.

Penetrating the already crowded downtown area is Kenzo’s next unenviable task. Navigating the abundance of sushi establishments like Nami, Ematei, Japango, and the newly opened Yuzu (opened by Japango owners), while avoiding the fates of iNoodle, Mizu and Izakaya will be even tougher during these recessionary times.

Kenzo will have one thing on its side; the very reason cementing its status amongst T.O.’s ramen lovers – its tonkotsu broth. Critics and fans alike praise the milky smooth, umami-rich pork bone broth as one of the best in the city. Tasting this tonkotsu broth should be on the “must-do list” of every Hogtown foodie. Yet, the owners are content to hide it from the menu, preferring to promote the gimmicky king-of-kings ramen? Why?

Tokotsu Ramen Close-up

Kenzo’s noodles need a bit more tweaking to get it right. Although just the right amount of chewiness, the timid noodles become lost, overwhelmed by the bold soup. The thinly sliced cha siu (braised pork) pieces, though good, do not inspire loyalty due to its small size and amount. Kenzo should learn from the generous portions served by Vancouver’s Kintaro in this aspect. It’s shameful when your ramen egg and naruto (fishcake) slices look just as big as your Cha Siu!

Besides the tonkotsu ramen, Kenzo also offers traditional Shio and Shoyo ramen styles. I recommend staying away from the gimmicky Ramen combinations you’ll see on the menu. When dining in groups, ordering Japanese street fares like Takoyaki or Okonomiyaki will definitely stir up a conversation. I’ve noticed an increasing popularity for these food in Asian dining spots. Newbies may find a new favourite with these dises, though die-hards who have tasted the real deal in Japan or Osaka will notice the poor imitation. But complain only if you’ve got money to fly out to Japan. If you do, take me with you?

My favourite North American ramen spots are still in Vancouver (Kintaro), and New York (Ippudo NY). I have high hopes that Toronto’s ramen scene will improve with time. Kenzo is proof that good ramen can be found here. Let’s hope they learn to simplify and properly market their craft for the rest of Toronto to see.

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