There are too many dishes to remember from those days past. Some hold only a vague impression, while others shine vividly in the mind’s eye. But no matter who you talk to, Singaporeans or ex-Singaporeans, chicken rice has to be considered among the top 5 Singapore national dishes. I’ve searched high and low in Toronto for this taste of home. And even though I’ve found a suitable replacement candidate at Phoenix restaurant, I remain vigilant for new contenders to surface.

Chicken Rice

Phoenix’s version isn’t a complete copy, but I appreciate its innovation. Traditional chicken rice is accompanied by a healthy trio of condiments – sweet soya sauce (usually home made), garlic sauce, and sliced chili/chili sauce. The condiments help enable a personal dining experience. However, Phoenix has stripped away the soya sauce, and chili sauce. The garlic sauce remains alongside Phoenix’s own sauce – a thai sauce mutation. Being a Hong Kong style diner (affectionately called ‘tea restaurants’), Phoenix carries table-side chili oil, a poor substitute. The best you can hope for is a squeeze-bottle of sirracha if you ask for real chili sauce.

What Phoenix does get right are the textural and taste of the chicken itself. The rice is deceptively fragrant; cooked in chicken oil, chicken stock and ginger. Even the little bowl of soup laden of msg invokes warm memories of the old country. Including cucumber slices as a poor man’s palette cleanser maintains the traditional presentation. But I can’t help but be reminded by bed of oily lettuce where the chicken pieces rests, that my arteries thank me for not eating this dish every day.

Hainanese Chicken

Don’t order this dish if you have an aversion to chicken skin. The skin plays a big factor in determining the perfect chicken rice. The chicken gets dunked repeatedly between hot water and ice cold water to gelatinize the fat, creating the shiny skin and the desirable texture.

There is one superficial detail that seals the deal for me. Phoenix serves this dish with de-boned chicken pieces, putting it above all other Toronto challengers. Other restaurants should take note and adopt this treatment. It might be more work for the kitchen, but there’s a reason why almost all Singapore hawkers serve their chicken rice this way. There’s nothing enjoyable about picking out little chicken bits from your teeth as you eat.

The original Phoenix (there are 2 locations in Markham) has undergone renovation improvements, to match the modern decor of its second store on Woodbine and Steeles. It’s also taken over the space of former next-door neighbour, “Mumz Delicacies”. Business is good. The chicken rice still remains the most ordered, and talked-about dish in their repetoire.

I’ve eaten chicken rice from many places. Truly, there’s no place that beats the convenience and price found in Singapore and Malaysia. In Canada, Vancouver seems to be the best chicken rice city. Toronto still has a lot to catch up, but Phoenix’s flagship dish deserves a frequent visit while I live here.

While cities like New York are reveling in their Banh Mi renaissance, Toronto’s Asian communities take a business as usual attitude towards this familiar staple. While the rest of the city sleep on this delicacy, those in the know still take Banh Mi for granted; as if it were as plain as the common whole wheat bread found in the bakery section of grocery stores.

Make no mistake, there’s nothing plain about Banh Mi. However, the bakery section is exactly where you’ll find Banh Mi, readily available in many Chinese grocery stores. Most of them will have been supplied by Nguyen Hong food company.

If you’re not satisfied with the grocery store variety, you’ll be happy to know that Nguyen Hong also has retail locations that make fresh Banh Mi on demand. You can definitely taste the difference between store-bought Banh Mi and a freshly made one. The bread and pickled vegetabls are crunchier, the cilantro more fragrant… and are generally bigger in size and portion compared to those you find in the grocery stores. You get more Banh Mi for the same price you would pay.

Since discovering the Nguyen Huong retail location, I no longer buy Banh Mi from grocery stores. Whenever I’m in the neighbourhood of Steeles and Middlefield (east of McCowan), I make it a priority to indulge my Banh Mi cravings. The Chinatown location might be convenient for downtown foodies, and if anyone knows of another location, please share with us in the comments!

For me, Banh Mi is the perfect sandwich. I even enjoy it when brought to work as lunch. I’d rather have 2 Banh Mi instead of a footlong. Why not? The cost of a footlong to 2 Banh Mi’s are comparable the same. Sadly, Toronto’s Banh Mi renaissance will probably come when famous chefs re-package sandwich as a sexy dish. Who’s going to reinvent Banh Mi, the way David Chang reinvented the pork belly bun? Until then, imagine with me a world that with Banh Mi stalls in the food court instead of Subways. Hmm.. maybe Subway needs to introduce a Banh Mi flavour?

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Mr. Sun's Noodle House

There resides a vibrant Taiwanese community in Toronto. Taiwanese immigrants come from an entrepreneur mom-and-pop background. So there is no shortage of Taiwanese eateries. Places like Mei Nung Beef Noodle House, Jin Yuan, Wei’s Kitchen all serve varying Taiwanese cuisines. But a common thread that ties many of their menus is Beef Noodle. My quest to eat them all have come to the conclusion that Mr. Sun’s Noodle House makes the best version of Taiwanese Beef Noodle yet.

Mr. Sun may have only been in business for his own for a few years, but he brings years of experience to the table. Having cooked in the kitchens of Lao Li Beef Noodle House (located on Sheppard between Midland and Brimley) when it was still a shining beacon for beef noodle, he forged his own path when the restaurant changed new management. But before I testify to the reason I came here, I cannot forgo the opportunity to sample under Taiwanese delicacies.

Stinky Tofu

First up, Taiwanese stinky tofu. Ah… the smell that reminds you of Asian night markets. Torontonians get exposed to this dish when they take in the summer night market experience. Usually, they’ll have to settle for some in-restaurant dining. The experience is diminished somewhat. Instead of standing up, trying to eat your piece of stinky tofu with a tooth pick, smelling them as they’re freshly fried right in front of you. You get it served up with sauce, pickled cabbages. Where’s the chili sauce, Mr Sun? I look around, hoping it would have been slathered all over like thick gravy. But I had to settle for the table-side condiments. The stinky tofu was adequate, much like the others you find around town. Probably because they are supplied by the same provider servicing other Taiwanese eateries – Xiong Ma Ma.

Braised Pork Rice

Another Taiwanese comfort food is braised pork rice.. There’s something about minced pork, braised in soya sauce with an egg and pickled vegetables that makes me crave it everytime I see it on the menu. I don’t order it everytime. Our relationship is like that most amazing fling you’ve ever had… the guy/girl you always give a second look when you meet, remembering the fun times, yearning to go back while struggling to move forward. Mr. Sun’s version is better than most you can find in Toronto. Strong star anise flavours dominate the dish as it should. The gravy mixed in with the rice makes it so easy to slide down your throat. So easy and fast did I scoff it down, that I’m left exhausted, satisfied… yet wanting more.

Pickled Vegetables

The pickled vegetables, seemingly homemade, to preview the main event. There are some who like to through it into the soup. Personally, I like to enjoy the vegetables on its own, so that I let the pickling effect get muddled in the broth. When the beef noodle arrive, my first thoughts were “this looks right”. There are many mutations of beef noodle soup out there. Some boast a clear broth; others use skinny noodles. But the version I’m most familiar with sits in front of me – thick, dark, warm and inviting.

Beef Noodle Soup

What makes a good beef noodle? Let’s start with a generous portion. From there, you must have large bite-sized beef pieces that are break-apart tender from the braising; retaining the braising agent’s flavor. The thick chewy noodles help elevate the enjoyment of slurping it up – a messy but necessary proposition. Some might mistake it as raw/uncooked, I prefer to compare it to the “Al Dente” (to the bite) way of making good Italian pasta. But all these components are merely backstage players to the show’s star – the soup!

The soup is the star. It’s deep anise-based flavour announces its unwillingness to be labeled like other noodle soups. It’s not just any ramen / noodle soup. Even in a blind taste test, you’re sure to recognize it. As the flavour hits, the soup saturates down your windpipe leaving a mellow after-taste that keeps you company for the rest of the journey. The soup is the glue that binds the other ingredients, providing for seamless transition from noodle to beef. When all the food is gone, the only decision left to ponder is whether you still have room to drink the rest of that soup.

Most beef noodle soups can be enjoyed spicy. Mr. Sun asked what level of spiciness we desired for the broth. I’ve enjoyed both the mild, and medium levels. There’s no motivation to move up to the hot level, since at medium.. there’s already too much chili oil drenching the bowl than I would like. I honestly prefer the mild version to avoid the distraction from the broth.

Mr. Sun, you make the beef noodles of my dreams!

Kenzo (North York)

Toronto’s noodle scene is an unfocused mess of Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and Italian. In the sea of abundant choices, established favourites like Pho gain grassroot support due in part to its simple recognizability. You know what you’re getting when a friend suggests Pho for lunch. But mention ramen, and people questionin if you are suggesting “instant noodles”.

Ramen are not simply instant noodles. Foodies who know the difference, frequently exchange insights into their favourite Toronto ramen spots on boards like Chowhound. Those discussion threads betray the trail of failure plaguing Toronto’s ramen community. Reports of closures are easily found and mourned. Those who survive, like Kenzo, go about their daily grind looking for opportunities to break away from the rest of the pack. But even a much loved Ramen eatery like Kenzo has battle scars. Kenzo’s expansion into Markham’s Peach-tree plaza closed down recently. But a silver lining within those dark clouds lives on Kenzo’s website:

Both our current restaurants are now under new management.
We are planning to open a new Kenzo Resturant downtown area.

Penetrating the already crowded downtown area is Kenzo’s next unenviable task. Navigating the abundance of sushi establishments like Nami, Ematei, Japango, and the newly opened Yuzu (opened by Japango owners), while avoiding the fates of iNoodle, Mizu and Izakaya will be even tougher during these recessionary times.

Kenzo will have one thing on its side; the very reason cementing its status amongst T.O.’s ramen lovers – its tonkotsu broth. Critics and fans alike praise the milky smooth, umami-rich pork bone broth as one of the best in the city. Tasting this tonkotsu broth should be on the “must-do list” of every Hogtown foodie. Yet, the owners are content to hide it from the menu, preferring to promote the gimmicky king-of-kings ramen? Why?

Tokotsu Ramen Close-up

Kenzo’s noodles need a bit more tweaking to get it right. Although just the right amount of chewiness, the timid noodles become lost, overwhelmed by the bold soup. The thinly sliced cha siu (braised pork) pieces, though good, do not inspire loyalty due to its small size and amount. Kenzo should learn from the generous portions served by Vancouver’s Kintaro in this aspect. It’s shameful when your ramen egg and naruto (fishcake) slices look just as big as your Cha Siu!

Besides the tonkotsu ramen, Kenzo also offers traditional Shio and Shoyo ramen styles. I recommend staying away from the gimmicky Ramen combinations you’ll see on the menu. When dining in groups, ordering Japanese street fares like Takoyaki or Okonomiyaki will definitely stir up a conversation. I’ve noticed an increasing popularity for these food in Asian dining spots. Newbies may find a new favourite with these dises, though die-hards who have tasted the real deal in Japan or Osaka will notice the poor imitation. But complain only if you’ve got money to fly out to Japan. If you do, take me with you?

My favourite North American ramen spots are still in Vancouver (Kintaro), and New York (Ippudo NY). I have high hopes that Toronto’s ramen scene will improve with time. Kenzo is proof that good ramen can be found here. Let’s hope they learn to simplify and properly market their craft for the rest of Toronto to see.

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Gourmet Garden - Food Court

Indeed, when you consider the fact that they still operate with the hawker mentality; conducting business in an out-of-sight food court location, there leaves no trace of pretension. While other owners would jump at the chance to open a true restaurant location with the amount of business Gourmet Garden receives, I’m happy that Gourmet Garden has preserved (intentionally or not) the hawker experience.

Rather than being one-dish specialists like most hawkers do, Gourmet Garden showcase their wide repertoire of South-East Asian with high proficiency. There are some misses, but also enough hits for me to keep coming back for more. The stir-fry dishes like mee-goreng, nasi-goreng, belacan kangkol are particuarly outstanding; possessing the elusive quality known as “wok-hey” (liken to the Japanese “umami”). I’ve recommended this restaurant to many, and brought relatives here to joyfully see the expressions on their face when they are transported back by the food.

The temptation pulls even stronger on weekends, as Gourmet Garden hosts specials only available those days. Consistent appearances of Poh Piah and Prawn Mee draw many Singaporean/Malaysian ex-pats here. It’s probably the one place you can catch some Indians/Malays ordering and conversing in fluent Chinese!

Weekend customers will be happily surprised by whatever other special Nonya dishes (such as Rojak) or desserts (such as Pulot Hitam) maybe available for consumption that day. Get there early before they run out! On most weekends, I order the Prawn Mee. One look at it is enough to make me weak in the knees, anticipating the first mouthful

Malaysian Prawn Mee

The Prawn Mee’s broth is typically a combination of shrimp and pork stock. Gourmet Garden adds a lot of peppercorn to the soup, giving it a much welcomed kick. The slippery egg noodles satiate your carb cravings but aren’t anything to write home about. Other toppings include green and red chili slices, sambal paste, pork slices, sliced hard-boiled eggs, cilantro and the piece-de-resistance: full head-on, shell-on shrimps! If you’re expecting nice shrimp cocktail pieces shelled for your convenience, forget about it. Part of the enjoyment is to rip apart the shells, licking your fingers as you make a mess. You’ll almost feel like you’ve reverted back to an infant state.

And if you’re like me, I would skip the shelling process. Yes, you will probably be grossed out by the sight of me eating the shrimp with the shell on, leaving only the tail and head portions left. After all, it’s just fiber and calcium! But nothing’s left to waste. True foodies know that the shrimp head contains the most flavour, so it is not thrown aside until the ritual sucking has coaxed all the flavours out of it. I probably resemble a depraved caveman eating his catch, leaking out the occasional “ooo’s” and “ahh’s” in between bites of noodles and sips of the broth. I can’t believe I’m reduced to a feral state as I finish this bowl, not a drop of soup left behind. But it’s an addiction that will keep me coming back for more.

If hell has indeed frozen over, then India may be its epicenter. 31% of Indians are vegetarian, so Indian cuisine is trusted with the distinction of making tasty, delicious vegetarian food. The popularity of these samosas are not solely driven by price alone. Bad food sold cheaply is still bad food, and would never become popular. Thankfully, these vegetarian samosas are actually little bite-size of heaven.

Indian Sweets

You can choose to step into Embassy’s formal dining area, or visit its retail shop instead. The shop features a large variety of Indian sweets and snacks. Admittedly, I haven’t acquired the acumen for Indian desserts yet. But like the majority of Embassy’s patrons, my reason for coming here is to get my hands on those samosas.

Long line-ups, reminiscent of the bread-lines during the great depression, are not unusual. You won’t stick out like a sore thumb even if you’re not Indian, as these samosas have garnered a diverse following. Ordering is not achieved by specifying how many samosas you want, but how many dollars worth you need. Cultural differences, I suppose. And don’t worry about specifying the vegetarian option; it’s automatically assumed.

Waiting in the back of the line, you might get worried seeing orders of 20, 30 samosas snatched up by each customer. As the samosa count dwindles down, you’re haunted with the thoughts with the supply running out when its you’re turn. Those concerns are quelled when another batch come out the kitchen to quickly replenish the supply. They must have a warehouse of samosas back there, waiting to be re-heated.

Samosas - Oily Goodness

Did I just utter the taboo word: “re-heated”? Isn’t that blasphemy in this day and age of the fresh seeking foodie? Well, stop that snooty thinking. This isn’t sashimi, and you don’t need vegetarian samosa fillings crawling out still kicking like they were live lobsters witness their own demise. Haven’t you heard that some food get better with time? I’m sure lovers of cold pizza slices would agree with me. How about that plate of perfect fried rice made from day-old leftover rice?

My order of 20 samosas rest inside a brown paper bag beside the cashier, waiting for me to pay for them. The oily goodness already penetrating the paper bag, reminding me that I’ll have to do another round of P90x after this. As I pick up my oily bag of samosas, I quickly scoff one down, while it’s still warm. For the next day or two, I’ll be munching these with relative frequency, until they are gone, until I re-join the line-up for more samosas.

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Burrito Boyz - Adelaide Location

The original location now operates under the new name, while the Boyz namesake remains at the roomier Adelaide location. Conducting their business in dark dank basements, as if it were a proud badge of its under bellied existence. Burrito Boyz have long been well known to club-goers hankering for a good bite after a long night of partying. I’ve always said, good food transforms into even better food when drunk.

I’ve had my share of Burritos here, but every time I step through the doors, I’m drawn to Ol’ Faithful – the Halibut Burrito. One with the works please! Can you imagine refried beans, guacamole, sour cream, salsa, mexican rice, jalapeno, cheese and other toppings wrapped together with a fried halibut filet in a grilled flour tortilla? Why yes! The very thought of it now is making me drool buckets.

Halibut Burrito

The uninitiated should be educated about the quirky ordering system. When you pay for the order, keep your receipt and the order card they give you. When your number is called.. show the receipt and drop the 411 to the prep guy/girl about your desired toppings. When the final product is ready, surrender your order card in the bucket during the pick up. The Halibut Burrito takes a while to make, but like many who have tasted its goodness, I know its worth the quirky ordering process, and the long wait.

I couldn’t wait to tear into the Halibut Burrito I held in my hand. The first bite penetrates the crunchy tortilla exterior, but doesn’t pick up much Halibut. But working towards the middle where the filet resides, I know you will begin to understand why a halibut in a Burrito makes so much sense. The fresh ingredients and flavours work together harmoniously, creating texturally excitement. You will begin to question your Burrito religion, and ask why aren’t more Burritos created this way. It’s for this reason that I crown the Halibut Burrito as one of the unique Toronto food delicacies, alongside such distinguished alumni as the St. Lawrence Market Pea meal Bacon Sandwich.

After the damage is down, you might want to chase your meal with some tropical juices (also available for purchase) to wash down the inevitable heartburn. And if that doesn’t deter you, I’m sure you’ll be returning. Take me with you… and I’ll have another Halibut Burrito with the works please!

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For the longest time in Toronto, Korean BBQ became synonymous with Korean cuisine. It still holds a large popularity among the younger crowd. This is not a bad thing, since it may be the only time you see teens and young adults actually cook. But it’s a colossal mistake to only know of Korean food as such.

Like Chinatown, the hey days of Koreatown moved northwards. Spend 5 minutes around the intersection of Yonge and Finch, and you might feel transported to a different country. Did you notice that most of the Korean restaurants aren’t necessary about Korean BBQ?

Korean cuisine can be wide and varied, but one particularly food fad has recently surfaced. Korean stews have become all the rage lately, whether it’s the pork bone stew from Minerva, or the more healthy Tofu stew you will find at Buk Chang Dong Soon Tofu. The original Buk Chang Doon Soon restaurant still has roots in old Koreatown, but its successful expansion into North York has prompted another aggressive move into Markham. The third store is set to open this summer at First Markham Place.

If Anthony Bourdain were reading, he might go crazy thinking about tofu, a vegetarian staple. Far from it, since vegetarians and meatatarians can both enjoy a tofu stew. How so? The answer can be found in the following tangent called – Korean Tofu Stew 101:

Tofu stew (or Soondooboo Chigae) is a spicy stew made with soft uncoagulated tofu. Uncoagulated tofu are produced without undergoing the compression that removes water and curdling it firmly. There are different levels of spiciness for this dish; light, medium and hot. In addition, variations of this dish are built upon by including combination ingrdients like seafood, beef, pork and/or vegetable. The ingredients, tofu and spicy broth are combined in a ceramic bowl and boiled over an intense heat. A raw egg may be optionally included table-side to add flavor, thicken, as well as dilute the broth’s spiciness.

Buk Chang Dong Soon’s simple menu promotes the benefits of Tofu, as if people still need convincing. Its clientele has diversified; moving out of the Korean community to include the appreciation of other ethnicities.

Korean Side Dishes

The first culinary impression that diners will enjoy will be the familiar Korean side dishes (aka Banchan). Don’t understimate its importance. I know people who would pick and choose restaurants simply by the quality and quantity of their side dishes. Buk Chang Dong Soon’s modest offering of 4 competent side dishes feels average with the exception of the Sweet Black Beans (Kongjaban) standing out.

I ordered the combination tofu stew which includes beef, shrimp and mussel. Though it sounds a lot, tofu does dominate the dish with more beef… the expensive ingredients of shrimp and mussel are relegated to 1 piece each. The rice accompanying the stew is actually healthy barley rice, and is meant to be integrated with the spicy broth. Purplish and alien-looking to some, the soggy texture does take a bit of getting used to.

The tofu stew itself is hearty, warm and a fine example of comfort food. Though red like the lava from from hell, and numerous peppercorn spices floating with me, the stew can taste unassumingly meloulow. The focus shifts to the flavour. Try it mild if you’re not the adventurous type, thought you will probably be tempted to crank up the spice level on your next visit.

Bulgogi Stew

On this visit, we also tried the interesting sounding Bulgogi stew. The first few pleasant sips slowed down as I increasingly found the teriyaki-like broth to be too sweet. This stew might be your cup of tea, but it’s not something I would order again.

Buk Chang Dong Soon’s success formula is apparent; one based on simplicity. Cheap one-pot meals, that are both comforting and healthy. All dishes can be enjoyed under $10, that’s tax included! The business overhead, cost of ingredients are easily manageable and predictable. I’m left wondering when non-Korean entrepreneurs will start marketing this cuisine as their own, similar to the evolution of the Korean BBQ genre. If they don’t catch on, you’ll likely see more Buk Chan Dong Soon’s opening soon near you.

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