I made sure my girlfriend and I had reservations that night. She’s heard me ramble forever describing the tasty and innovative Thai cuisine at Linda’s; levels above the generic canteen-esque food served at its popular sister restaurant Salad King. Having lived mostly under the King’s shadow, this relocation is a great opportunity for Linda to truly carve out its own identity on the Toronto food scene.

Stepping through those heavy front doors, old patrons are greeted with the familiar intimate color scheme re-interpreted with a smooth polish. However, I’m not convinced if the decor and the dining area setup is an improvement. Though the lighting and miscellaneous decorations were esthetically pleasing, I wasn’t a fan of the wall mural — it’s an overdone concept. The mural mistakingly paint Linda’s as a lounge, conflicting with a staff operating with no pretension that Linda is still a restaurant. At this moment, I can’t help but miss the brick walls and creaky wooden floors from the old Linda.

Whereas the former Linda was a getaway from the bustling Salad King crowd, the new Linda brought along Salad King’s lively atmosphere. It gets quite noisy very quickly when the crowd fills in. The table setup in the middle of the dining room seem cramped amongst the red partitions. Diners would have to nudge and excuse themselves with every significant movement. The dining area felt like a darker, classier, but smaller Congee Wong / Congee Queen. No longer does it seem conducive to an intimate dining experience. Whether this will turn away previous regulars remains to be seen.

Service delivered a more promising start to our Linda experience. The wait staff talked with seeming knowledge, were happy to provide suggestions, and answered questions quickly with a smile. Though our waitress seemed apprehensive about eating soft shell crabs, she was attentive and accommodating. We did encounter a long wait between our appetizers and entrees. I already anticipated this before we sat down, since I surveyed the dining area and saw many diners waiting with empty table tops. My girlfriend and I even joked that we finally experienced the “Hell’s Kitchen wait”. In their defense, it’s not fair to penalize a kitchen working its first night in a new environment. My acid test would be judging the food quality being pushed out.

I’m happy to report that the food standards were kept high, compliments to Chef Wing Li and his staff. Every dish were perfectly spiced and flavourful. Glaringly absent however was the famous Salad King chili system from the menu. Our waitress assured that it would still be honored upon request. I’m happy this gimmick has been dropped, but diners yearning for extreme spiciness will still have the option.

The Tom Yum Goong soup had plenty of shrimp, mushrooms and kaffir lime leaves. The soup did not taste particularly hot nor sour, but was fresh and mellow instead. I’m used to having a bit more sour kick in my Tom Yum Goong and this offering felt toned down for western palettes. But I still appreciated the respect the chef paid to the fresh ingredients.

The Soft Shell Crab Appetizer. The light batter was perfectly spiced. You could easily enjoy the crab on its own, but don’t miss the opportunity to try the spectacular dipping sauce! The dipping sauce is a testament to the efforts of the owners who travel the world to research and compare. Portions were small, especially considering the menu promoted it as “extra large” soft shell crabs. Though the crab was good, we didn’t feel like we got value with this dish.

The Curry Duck (Duck In Red Curry Sauce) is a big favourite among many devoted Linda foodies. Grilled smoke duck breast with vegtables in Thai Red Curry with Coconut Milk, Yummy! I’ve never had duck in Thailand, and will probably never get the opportunity. But I know what I like, and I like this! This is a well-executed and unique dish; you won’t find many Thai restaurants serving smoked duck. This dish plays to Linda’s strengths — embracing its French/European influence in plating and flavour combinations. But the dominant flavours remain authentically Thai, albeit a modern interpretation.

Baked Young Coconut with Fried Rice. Young coconut filled wih rice stir fried with shrimp paste, coconut water, white shrimp, scallop, topped with coconut milk and tamarind sauce. The coconut husk makes for a terrific presentation. The inclusion of shrimp paste made the fried rice fragrant, but not overwhelming. Generous shrimp / scallop portions. The tamarind sauce playfully contrasted the fried rice. I love playing with my food and scraping the coconut meat of its husks was simply fun.

Linda becomes an early restaurant entry at the outdoor mall “Shops On Don Mills”; which by the way is my early pick for the summer shopping hot spot. Judging from the full opening night, Linda should enjoy many more busy nights to come as they continue their soft opening, tweaking their kitchen and service. Hopefully some of the opportunities I mentioned pertaining to the dining area and the serving portions can be corrected by their Mid-May grand opening. I’ll definitely revisit Linda when the time is right.

RECOMMEND:

The Curry Duck, selections from the “Catch from the sea” menu section seemed interesting too!

SKIP:

The appetizers to leave more room for another entree? (except maybe the Meng Kum, I was envious of surrounding diners who ordered this app)

Mr. Sun's Noodle House

There resides a vibrant Taiwanese community in Toronto. Taiwanese immigrants come from an entrepreneur mom-and-pop background. So there is no shortage of Taiwanese eateries. Places like Mei Nung Beef Noodle House, Jin Yuan, Wei’s Kitchen all serve varying Taiwanese cuisines. But a common thread that ties many of their menus is Beef Noodle. My quest to eat them all have come to the conclusion that Mr. Sun’s Noodle House makes the best version of Taiwanese Beef Noodle yet.

Mr. Sun may have only been in business for his own for a few years, but he brings years of experience to the table. Having cooked in the kitchens of Lao Li Beef Noodle House (located on Sheppard between Midland and Brimley) when it was still a shining beacon for beef noodle, he forged his own path when the restaurant changed new management. But before I testify to the reason I came here, I cannot forgo the opportunity to sample under Taiwanese delicacies.

Stinky Tofu

First up, Taiwanese stinky tofu. Ah… the smell that reminds you of Asian night markets. Torontonians get exposed to this dish when they take in the summer night market experience. Usually, they’ll have to settle for some in-restaurant dining. The experience is diminished somewhat. Instead of standing up, trying to eat your piece of stinky tofu with a tooth pick, smelling them as they’re freshly fried right in front of you. You get it served up with sauce, pickled cabbages. Where’s the chili sauce, Mr Sun? I look around, hoping it would have been slathered all over like thick gravy. But I had to settle for the table-side condiments. The stinky tofu was adequate, much like the others you find around town. Probably because they are supplied by the same provider servicing other Taiwanese eateries – Xiong Ma Ma.

Braised Pork Rice

Another Taiwanese comfort food is braised pork rice.. There’s something about minced pork, braised in soya sauce with an egg and pickled vegetables that makes me crave it everytime I see it on the menu. I don’t order it everytime. Our relationship is like that most amazing fling you’ve ever had… the guy/girl you always give a second look when you meet, remembering the fun times, yearning to go back while struggling to move forward. Mr. Sun’s version is better than most you can find in Toronto. Strong star anise flavours dominate the dish as it should. The gravy mixed in with the rice makes it so easy to slide down your throat. So easy and fast did I scoff it down, that I’m left exhausted, satisfied… yet wanting more.

Pickled Vegetables

The pickled vegetables, seemingly homemade, to preview the main event. There are some who like to through it into the soup. Personally, I like to enjoy the vegetables on its own, so that I let the pickling effect get muddled in the broth. When the beef noodle arrive, my first thoughts were “this looks right”. There are many mutations of beef noodle soup out there. Some boast a clear broth; others use skinny noodles. But the version I’m most familiar with sits in front of me – thick, dark, warm and inviting.

Beef Noodle Soup

What makes a good beef noodle? Let’s start with a generous portion. From there, you must have large bite-sized beef pieces that are break-apart tender from the braising; retaining the braising agent’s flavor. The thick chewy noodles help elevate the enjoyment of slurping it up – a messy but necessary proposition. Some might mistake it as raw/uncooked, I prefer to compare it to the “Al Dente” (to the bite) way of making good Italian pasta. But all these components are merely backstage players to the show’s star – the soup!

The soup is the star. It’s deep anise-based flavour announces its unwillingness to be labeled like other noodle soups. It’s not just any ramen / noodle soup. Even in a blind taste test, you’re sure to recognize it. As the flavour hits, the soup saturates down your windpipe leaving a mellow after-taste that keeps you company for the rest of the journey. The soup is the glue that binds the other ingredients, providing for seamless transition from noodle to beef. When all the food is gone, the only decision left to ponder is whether you still have room to drink the rest of that soup.

Most beef noodle soups can be enjoyed spicy. Mr. Sun asked what level of spiciness we desired for the broth. I’ve enjoyed both the mild, and medium levels. There’s no motivation to move up to the hot level, since at medium.. there’s already too much chili oil drenching the bowl than I would like. I honestly prefer the mild version to avoid the distraction from the broth.

Mr. Sun, you make the beef noodles of my dreams!

Kenzo (North York)

Toronto’s noodle scene is an unfocused mess of Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and Italian. In the sea of abundant choices, established favourites like Pho gain grassroot support due in part to its simple recognizability. You know what you’re getting when a friend suggests Pho for lunch. But mention ramen, and people questionin if you are suggesting “instant noodles”.

Ramen are not simply instant noodles. Foodies who know the difference, frequently exchange insights into their favourite Toronto ramen spots on boards like Chowhound. Those discussion threads betray the trail of failure plaguing Toronto’s ramen community. Reports of closures are easily found and mourned. Those who survive, like Kenzo, go about their daily grind looking for opportunities to break away from the rest of the pack. But even a much loved Ramen eatery like Kenzo has battle scars. Kenzo’s expansion into Markham’s Peach-tree plaza closed down recently. But a silver lining within those dark clouds lives on Kenzo’s website:

Both our current restaurants are now under new management.
We are planning to open a new Kenzo Resturant downtown area.

Penetrating the already crowded downtown area is Kenzo’s next unenviable task. Navigating the abundance of sushi establishments like Nami, Ematei, Japango, and the newly opened Yuzu (opened by Japango owners), while avoiding the fates of iNoodle, Mizu and Izakaya will be even tougher during these recessionary times.

Kenzo will have one thing on its side; the very reason cementing its status amongst T.O.’s ramen lovers – its tonkotsu broth. Critics and fans alike praise the milky smooth, umami-rich pork bone broth as one of the best in the city. Tasting this tonkotsu broth should be on the “must-do list” of every Hogtown foodie. Yet, the owners are content to hide it from the menu, preferring to promote the gimmicky king-of-kings ramen? Why?

Tokotsu Ramen Close-up

Kenzo’s noodles need a bit more tweaking to get it right. Although just the right amount of chewiness, the timid noodles become lost, overwhelmed by the bold soup. The thinly sliced cha siu (braised pork) pieces, though good, do not inspire loyalty due to its small size and amount. Kenzo should learn from the generous portions served by Vancouver’s Kintaro in this aspect. It’s shameful when your ramen egg and naruto (fishcake) slices look just as big as your Cha Siu!

Besides the tonkotsu ramen, Kenzo also offers traditional Shio and Shoyo ramen styles. I recommend staying away from the gimmicky Ramen combinations you’ll see on the menu. When dining in groups, ordering Japanese street fares like Takoyaki or Okonomiyaki will definitely stir up a conversation. I’ve noticed an increasing popularity for these food in Asian dining spots. Newbies may find a new favourite with these dises, though die-hards who have tasted the real deal in Japan or Osaka will notice the poor imitation. But complain only if you’ve got money to fly out to Japan. If you do, take me with you?

My favourite North American ramen spots are still in Vancouver (Kintaro), and New York (Ippudo NY). I have high hopes that Toronto’s ramen scene will improve with time. Kenzo is proof that good ramen can be found here. Let’s hope they learn to simplify and properly market their craft for the rest of Toronto to see.

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Gourmet Garden - Food Court

Indeed, when you consider the fact that they still operate with the hawker mentality; conducting business in an out-of-sight food court location, there leaves no trace of pretension. While other owners would jump at the chance to open a true restaurant location with the amount of business Gourmet Garden receives, I’m happy that Gourmet Garden has preserved (intentionally or not) the hawker experience.

Rather than being one-dish specialists like most hawkers do, Gourmet Garden showcase their wide repertoire of South-East Asian with high proficiency. There are some misses, but also enough hits for me to keep coming back for more. The stir-fry dishes like mee-goreng, nasi-goreng, belacan kangkol are particuarly outstanding; possessing the elusive quality known as “wok-hey” (liken to the Japanese “umami”). I’ve recommended this restaurant to many, and brought relatives here to joyfully see the expressions on their face when they are transported back by the food.

The temptation pulls even stronger on weekends, as Gourmet Garden hosts specials only available those days. Consistent appearances of Poh Piah and Prawn Mee draw many Singaporean/Malaysian ex-pats here. It’s probably the one place you can catch some Indians/Malays ordering and conversing in fluent Chinese!

Weekend customers will be happily surprised by whatever other special Nonya dishes (such as Rojak) or desserts (such as Pulot Hitam) maybe available for consumption that day. Get there early before they run out! On most weekends, I order the Prawn Mee. One look at it is enough to make me weak in the knees, anticipating the first mouthful

Malaysian Prawn Mee

The Prawn Mee’s broth is typically a combination of shrimp and pork stock. Gourmet Garden adds a lot of peppercorn to the soup, giving it a much welcomed kick. The slippery egg noodles satiate your carb cravings but aren’t anything to write home about. Other toppings include green and red chili slices, sambal paste, pork slices, sliced hard-boiled eggs, cilantro and the piece-de-resistance: full head-on, shell-on shrimps! If you’re expecting nice shrimp cocktail pieces shelled for your convenience, forget about it. Part of the enjoyment is to rip apart the shells, licking your fingers as you make a mess. You’ll almost feel like you’ve reverted back to an infant state.

And if you’re like me, I would skip the shelling process. Yes, you will probably be grossed out by the sight of me eating the shrimp with the shell on, leaving only the tail and head portions left. After all, it’s just fiber and calcium! But nothing’s left to waste. True foodies know that the shrimp head contains the most flavour, so it is not thrown aside until the ritual sucking has coaxed all the flavours out of it. I probably resemble a depraved caveman eating his catch, leaking out the occasional “ooo’s” and “ahh’s” in between bites of noodles and sips of the broth. I can’t believe I’m reduced to a feral state as I finish this bowl, not a drop of soup left behind. But it’s an addiction that will keep me coming back for more.

If hell has indeed frozen over, then India may be its epicenter. 31% of Indians are vegetarian, so Indian cuisine is trusted with the distinction of making tasty, delicious vegetarian food. The popularity of these samosas are not solely driven by price alone. Bad food sold cheaply is still bad food, and would never become popular. Thankfully, these vegetarian samosas are actually little bite-size of heaven.

Indian Sweets

You can choose to step into Embassy’s formal dining area, or visit its retail shop instead. The shop features a large variety of Indian sweets and snacks. Admittedly, I haven’t acquired the acumen for Indian desserts yet. But like the majority of Embassy’s patrons, my reason for coming here is to get my hands on those samosas.

Long line-ups, reminiscent of the bread-lines during the great depression, are not unusual. You won’t stick out like a sore thumb even if you’re not Indian, as these samosas have garnered a diverse following. Ordering is not achieved by specifying how many samosas you want, but how many dollars worth you need. Cultural differences, I suppose. And don’t worry about specifying the vegetarian option; it’s automatically assumed.

Waiting in the back of the line, you might get worried seeing orders of 20, 30 samosas snatched up by each customer. As the samosa count dwindles down, you’re haunted with the thoughts with the supply running out when its you’re turn. Those concerns are quelled when another batch come out the kitchen to quickly replenish the supply. They must have a warehouse of samosas back there, waiting to be re-heated.

Samosas - Oily Goodness

Did I just utter the taboo word: “re-heated”? Isn’t that blasphemy in this day and age of the fresh seeking foodie? Well, stop that snooty thinking. This isn’t sashimi, and you don’t need vegetarian samosa fillings crawling out still kicking like they were live lobsters witness their own demise. Haven’t you heard that some food get better with time? I’m sure lovers of cold pizza slices would agree with me. How about that plate of perfect fried rice made from day-old leftover rice?

My order of 20 samosas rest inside a brown paper bag beside the cashier, waiting for me to pay for them. The oily goodness already penetrating the paper bag, reminding me that I’ll have to do another round of P90x after this. As I pick up my oily bag of samosas, I quickly scoff one down, while it’s still warm. For the next day or two, I’ll be munching these with relative frequency, until they are gone, until I re-join the line-up for more samosas.

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Burrito Boyz - Adelaide Location

The original location now operates under the new name, while the Boyz namesake remains at the roomier Adelaide location. Conducting their business in dark dank basements, as if it were a proud badge of its under bellied existence. Burrito Boyz have long been well known to club-goers hankering for a good bite after a long night of partying. I’ve always said, good food transforms into even better food when drunk.

I’ve had my share of Burritos here, but every time I step through the doors, I’m drawn to Ol’ Faithful – the Halibut Burrito. One with the works please! Can you imagine refried beans, guacamole, sour cream, salsa, mexican rice, jalapeno, cheese and other toppings wrapped together with a fried halibut filet in a grilled flour tortilla? Why yes! The very thought of it now is making me drool buckets.

Halibut Burrito

The uninitiated should be educated about the quirky ordering system. When you pay for the order, keep your receipt and the order card they give you. When your number is called.. show the receipt and drop the 411 to the prep guy/girl about your desired toppings. When the final product is ready, surrender your order card in the bucket during the pick up. The Halibut Burrito takes a while to make, but like many who have tasted its goodness, I know its worth the quirky ordering process, and the long wait.

I couldn’t wait to tear into the Halibut Burrito I held in my hand. The first bite penetrates the crunchy tortilla exterior, but doesn’t pick up much Halibut. But working towards the middle where the filet resides, I know you will begin to understand why a halibut in a Burrito makes so much sense. The fresh ingredients and flavours work together harmoniously, creating texturally excitement. You will begin to question your Burrito religion, and ask why aren’t more Burritos created this way. It’s for this reason that I crown the Halibut Burrito as one of the unique Toronto food delicacies, alongside such distinguished alumni as the St. Lawrence Market Pea meal Bacon Sandwich.

After the damage is down, you might want to chase your meal with some tropical juices (also available for purchase) to wash down the inevitable heartburn. And if that doesn’t deter you, I’m sure you’ll be returning. Take me with you… and I’ll have another Halibut Burrito with the works please!

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Ravisoups - Interior

You can’t really blame them. Soup does seem like the perfect no-fuss business plan. Easy to prepare, ready for a quick sale. Just who will do for soups, what Starbucks did for coffee? Many have answered that call, but few have succeeded. Those who stay in business rely on their cult-like regulars. Beyond that, one doesn’t get the sense that they are able to elevate soup to the next level. But no one has really pushed the boundaries to innovate soup as a meal, until Ravi Kanagarajah came along.

Ravisoups is not your run-of-the-mill soup shack offering the obligatory chicken noodle, or mulligatawny soup. A former saucier and soup sous from the revered kitchens of Mildred Pierce, Ravi does not practice the same repertoire that other soup places have settled into. His menu at Ravisoups boasts an innovative and personal menu, ever-changing and taking full advantage of seasonal ingredients.

Ravisoups - Interior Decor

Though slightly out of the way for downtown core patrons, those who make the trek to Ravisoups will find the journey worthwhile. On my most recent visit, Ravisoups displayed the same sterile decor that I had hoped would change. Cute paintings of chicks bathing in soups still cannot help the hospital-like walls and flooring scream, “I’m clean! I’m sanitary!” It’s never a but idea to run a clean restaurant, but the atmospher borders on being anemic. My solution is to move out to the back patio when the weather is nice, or grab my food as take-out like many other busy patrons.

Excusing the interior decoration, Ravi is otherwise full of good ideas. But he also has enough sense to keep it simple. Drawing inspiration from his neighbours nearby – Burrito Boyz, Ravi offers a savory accompaniment to soup. If soup’s not your thing, how about wraps? Better yet, order a soup and wrap combo. It costs approximately $10 after taxes, qualifying it as one my favourite lunch ideas in Toronto. The choice of wraps fits congruently with the healthy theme, and offers the perfect canvas for Ravi to crank out more creative ideas.

Free Range Chicken Wrap

How about this idea to start? Free-range chicken wraps with baby spinach, roasted yam, caramelized onion and chipotle mayo? Why yes! I’m drooling just reading the description on the wall menu. Bite into the grill-pressed wraps and you’ll agree with me that this combination is the mark of a chef who knows how to combine flavours and textures. It may possibly be the best wrap I’ve ever had in my life. And if I can tear myself away from ordering this wrap everytime, I would be in a better position to tell you about his other equally tempting wrap concoctions.

Leeks & Potato Soup with Biscuit

When it comes to soup, I am more adventurous; letting Ravi make my choice. I typically order the varying soup specials of the day. Today was leek and potato soup’s turn. My steaming bowl arrived well seasoned, sitting atop of cute turntable platters, served with house biscuits, and sweet bell-pepper relish. The portions are plenty generous. So much that my girlfriend could not finish her bowl, granting us the option for declicious left-overs tomorrow.

My girlfriend enjoyed the Thai-inspired Chicken Hot Pot Broth. The chicken hot pot broth is fragrant, full of coconut flavour and really hits the spot. Though I would like a bit more of a spicy kick to it, the chicken hot pot still dominates most of the soup stores you’ll find in the downtown path. If you’re looking for more recommendations, I also heartily suggest the Porcini mushroom and wild rice bisque.

Chicken Hot Pot Broth with Biscuit

Another very good idea is the Ravisoups Happy Hour. Soups are half-price from 5pm-6pm on Fridays. Those who are not hurriedly stumbling into your nearest Jack Astors (or your favourite bar), may choose to start their weekend off healthily. If only Happy Hour was available everyday, it might actually make getting off work in the downtown core something to look forward to!

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