I made sure my girlfriend and I had reservations that night. She’s heard me ramble forever describing the tasty and innovative Thai cuisine at Linda’s; levels above the generic canteen-esque food served at its popular sister restaurant Salad King. Having lived mostly under the King’s shadow, this relocation is a great opportunity for Linda to truly carve out its own identity on the Toronto food scene.

Stepping through those heavy front doors, old patrons are greeted with the familiar intimate color scheme re-interpreted with a smooth polish. However, I’m not convinced if the decor and the dining area setup is an improvement. Though the lighting and miscellaneous decorations were esthetically pleasing, I wasn’t a fan of the wall mural — it’s an overdone concept. The mural mistakingly paint Linda’s as a lounge, conflicting with a staff operating with no pretension that Linda is still a restaurant. At this moment, I can’t help but miss the brick walls and creaky wooden floors from the old Linda.

Whereas the former Linda was a getaway from the bustling Salad King crowd, the new Linda brought along Salad King’s lively atmosphere. It gets quite noisy very quickly when the crowd fills in. The table setup in the middle of the dining room seem cramped amongst the red partitions. Diners would have to nudge and excuse themselves with every significant movement. The dining area felt like a darker, classier, but smaller Congee Wong / Congee Queen. No longer does it seem conducive to an intimate dining experience. Whether this will turn away previous regulars remains to be seen.

Service delivered a more promising start to our Linda experience. The wait staff talked with seeming knowledge, were happy to provide suggestions, and answered questions quickly with a smile. Though our waitress seemed apprehensive about eating soft shell crabs, she was attentive and accommodating. We did encounter a long wait between our appetizers and entrees. I already anticipated this before we sat down, since I surveyed the dining area and saw many diners waiting with empty table tops. My girlfriend and I even joked that we finally experienced the “Hell’s Kitchen wait”. In their defense, it’s not fair to penalize a kitchen working its first night in a new environment. My acid test would be judging the food quality being pushed out.

I’m happy to report that the food standards were kept high, compliments to Chef Wing Li and his staff. Every dish were perfectly spiced and flavourful. Glaringly absent however was the famous Salad King chili system from the menu. Our waitress assured that it would still be honored upon request. I’m happy this gimmick has been dropped, but diners yearning for extreme spiciness will still have the option.

The Tom Yum Goong soup had plenty of shrimp, mushrooms and kaffir lime leaves. The soup did not taste particularly hot nor sour, but was fresh and mellow instead. I’m used to having a bit more sour kick in my Tom Yum Goong and this offering felt toned down for western palettes. But I still appreciated the respect the chef paid to the fresh ingredients.

The Soft Shell Crab Appetizer. The light batter was perfectly spiced. You could easily enjoy the crab on its own, but don’t miss the opportunity to try the spectacular dipping sauce! The dipping sauce is a testament to the efforts of the owners who travel the world to research and compare. Portions were small, especially considering the menu promoted it as “extra large” soft shell crabs. Though the crab was good, we didn’t feel like we got value with this dish.

The Curry Duck (Duck In Red Curry Sauce) is a big favourite among many devoted Linda foodies. Grilled smoke duck breast with vegtables in Thai Red Curry with Coconut Milk, Yummy! I’ve never had duck in Thailand, and will probably never get the opportunity. But I know what I like, and I like this! This is a well-executed and unique dish; you won’t find many Thai restaurants serving smoked duck. This dish plays to Linda’s strengths — embracing its French/European influence in plating and flavour combinations. But the dominant flavours remain authentically Thai, albeit a modern interpretation.

Baked Young Coconut with Fried Rice. Young coconut filled wih rice stir fried with shrimp paste, coconut water, white shrimp, scallop, topped with coconut milk and tamarind sauce. The coconut husk makes for a terrific presentation. The inclusion of shrimp paste made the fried rice fragrant, but not overwhelming. Generous shrimp / scallop portions. The tamarind sauce playfully contrasted the fried rice. I love playing with my food and scraping the coconut meat of its husks was simply fun.

Linda becomes an early restaurant entry at the outdoor mall “Shops On Don Mills”; which by the way is my early pick for the summer shopping hot spot. Judging from the full opening night, Linda should enjoy many more busy nights to come as they continue their soft opening, tweaking their kitchen and service. Hopefully some of the opportunities I mentioned pertaining to the dining area and the serving portions can be corrected by their Mid-May grand opening. I’ll definitely revisit Linda when the time is right.

RECOMMEND:

The Curry Duck, selections from the “Catch from the sea” menu section seemed interesting too!

SKIP:

The appetizers to leave more room for another entree? (except maybe the Meng Kum, I was envious of surrounding diners who ordered this app)

Kenzo (North York)

Toronto’s noodle scene is an unfocused mess of Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and Italian. In the sea of abundant choices, established favourites like Pho gain grassroot support due in part to its simple recognizability. You know what you’re getting when a friend suggests Pho for lunch. But mention ramen, and people questionin if you are suggesting “instant noodles”.

Ramen are not simply instant noodles. Foodies who know the difference, frequently exchange insights into their favourite Toronto ramen spots on boards like Chowhound. Those discussion threads betray the trail of failure plaguing Toronto’s ramen community. Reports of closures are easily found and mourned. Those who survive, like Kenzo, go about their daily grind looking for opportunities to break away from the rest of the pack. But even a much loved Ramen eatery like Kenzo has battle scars. Kenzo’s expansion into Markham’s Peach-tree plaza closed down recently. But a silver lining within those dark clouds lives on Kenzo’s website:

Both our current restaurants are now under new management.
We are planning to open a new Kenzo Resturant downtown area.

Penetrating the already crowded downtown area is Kenzo’s next unenviable task. Navigating the abundance of sushi establishments like Nami, Ematei, Japango, and the newly opened Yuzu (opened by Japango owners), while avoiding the fates of iNoodle, Mizu and Izakaya will be even tougher during these recessionary times.

Kenzo will have one thing on its side; the very reason cementing its status amongst T.O.’s ramen lovers – its tonkotsu broth. Critics and fans alike praise the milky smooth, umami-rich pork bone broth as one of the best in the city. Tasting this tonkotsu broth should be on the “must-do list” of every Hogtown foodie. Yet, the owners are content to hide it from the menu, preferring to promote the gimmicky king-of-kings ramen? Why?

Tokotsu Ramen Close-up

Kenzo’s noodles need a bit more tweaking to get it right. Although just the right amount of chewiness, the timid noodles become lost, overwhelmed by the bold soup. The thinly sliced cha siu (braised pork) pieces, though good, do not inspire loyalty due to its small size and amount. Kenzo should learn from the generous portions served by Vancouver’s Kintaro in this aspect. It’s shameful when your ramen egg and naruto (fishcake) slices look just as big as your Cha Siu!

Besides the tonkotsu ramen, Kenzo also offers traditional Shio and Shoyo ramen styles. I recommend staying away from the gimmicky Ramen combinations you’ll see on the menu. When dining in groups, ordering Japanese street fares like Takoyaki or Okonomiyaki will definitely stir up a conversation. I’ve noticed an increasing popularity for these food in Asian dining spots. Newbies may find a new favourite with these dises, though die-hards who have tasted the real deal in Japan or Osaka will notice the poor imitation. But complain only if you’ve got money to fly out to Japan. If you do, take me with you?

My favourite North American ramen spots are still in Vancouver (Kintaro), and New York (Ippudo NY). I have high hopes that Toronto’s ramen scene will improve with time. Kenzo is proof that good ramen can be found here. Let’s hope they learn to simplify and properly market their craft for the rest of Toronto to see.

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Burrito Boyz - Adelaide Location

The original location now operates under the new name, while the Boyz namesake remains at the roomier Adelaide location. Conducting their business in dark dank basements, as if it were a proud badge of its under bellied existence. Burrito Boyz have long been well known to club-goers hankering for a good bite after a long night of partying. I’ve always said, good food transforms into even better food when drunk.

I’ve had my share of Burritos here, but every time I step through the doors, I’m drawn to Ol’ Faithful – the Halibut Burrito. One with the works please! Can you imagine refried beans, guacamole, sour cream, salsa, mexican rice, jalapeno, cheese and other toppings wrapped together with a fried halibut filet in a grilled flour tortilla? Why yes! The very thought of it now is making me drool buckets.

Halibut Burrito

The uninitiated should be educated about the quirky ordering system. When you pay for the order, keep your receipt and the order card they give you. When your number is called.. show the receipt and drop the 411 to the prep guy/girl about your desired toppings. When the final product is ready, surrender your order card in the bucket during the pick up. The Halibut Burrito takes a while to make, but like many who have tasted its goodness, I know its worth the quirky ordering process, and the long wait.

I couldn’t wait to tear into the Halibut Burrito I held in my hand. The first bite penetrates the crunchy tortilla exterior, but doesn’t pick up much Halibut. But working towards the middle where the filet resides, I know you will begin to understand why a halibut in a Burrito makes so much sense. The fresh ingredients and flavours work together harmoniously, creating texturally excitement. You will begin to question your Burrito religion, and ask why aren’t more Burritos created this way. It’s for this reason that I crown the Halibut Burrito as one of the unique Toronto food delicacies, alongside such distinguished alumni as the St. Lawrence Market Pea meal Bacon Sandwich.

After the damage is down, you might want to chase your meal with some tropical juices (also available for purchase) to wash down the inevitable heartburn. And if that doesn’t deter you, I’m sure you’ll be returning. Take me with you… and I’ll have another Halibut Burrito with the works please!

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